[Back To Article List]
Developing Land Into Building Sites
How do you determine where and how the house will sit on its lot? A house's
positioning is significant, says Dan Fitzpatrick, owner of Fitzpatrick Real
Estate and seller of acreage lots. Placement affects the building's ambience
indoors and out and impacts the resale value.
Visualize your house on the lot, Fitzpatrick advises. Picture the location
and exposure, and if you have trouble visualizing, look for houses similar to
yours on lots similar to yours.
And here's another Fitzpatrick tip to punch up the picturing process: An acre
is a football field big.
Before you select a builder, talk to several, says Aspen Enterprises President and owner Candy Peters. "Interview them as you would for a job, because you'll hire one them to do a job for you and you are the boss." Rate your contractor candidates by how well they communicate with you, how much trust they inspire, and how comfortable you feel with them. Then narrow the field to three.
Why three? "You don't want too few bids," Peters says, "or so many you're overwhelmed." The bids (and later, the contract) should include the particulars. "Just doors' isn't enough. Are they oak? Are they flat or six-panel? If you don't have specific details, you don't really know what you are getting."
"What's the interest rate?", is her customers' favorite question, says Barb Brown, mortgage loan officer at ABN AMRO Mortgage.
Her favorite answer is, "It depends."
Interest rates hinge on mortgage types. Rates for fixed-rate loans, ARMs and balloons differ. And the best mortgage depends on each buyer's circumstances - "whichever plan meets the need."
For example, ARMs (adjustable-rate mortgages) work best for people who intend to move in a few years. An ARM starts with lower interest than a fixed-rate mortgage, but after the initial period (usually three or five years), the rate can adjust two percent either way every year for the term of the loan.
A good mortgage loan officer will explain your options and help you pick the plan that suits you. "Clients fill out a short application," Brown says, "but we still need to talk with them to find out what works best for them."
When you plan your house, focus on what you want to do and how much room you'll need to do it. "Don't try to pack too much stuff into too small a space," says Julie Praus, owner of Cornerstone Design. "A house of 2,000 square feet doesn't have room for a gourmet kitchen and a guest bedroom with a full bath." On the other hand, don't make the house too big.
Instead, make full use of every room. If you eat most of your meals in the kitchen, forego the formal dining room and opt for a smaller dining area that can be expanded as needed. Or, design a dining room to double as an office, study area, reading spot or playroom. Other rooms can multi-task, too, to help you use space as efficiently as possible.
Obtaining Needed Permits
The Building Safety Department reviews construction plans and issues building permits which are necessary for safety and consumer protection, says Ron Boose, Director of Building Safety and state-designated building official.
In new home construction, the Building Safety Department usually deals with the middleman, the contractor, and rarely with the consumer because getting the permits is part of the builder's job.
The builder submits detailed plans, which Building Safety does not approve in a jiffy. During the peak of the construction season, builders and their eager clients can expect to wait three to four weeks for permits.
If the plan contains mistakes, Building Safety notifies the contractor who must make corrections before the permit is issued.
Step one to a Mojave-dry basement is proper placement. "Many people who are building their own homes, site the house too low, says Art Friedrich, owner of Friedrich Construction. If you're acting as your own general contractor, ask the excavator to help you determine where the house should go.
Step two is installing a foundation high enough to permit adequate backfilling. Many do-it-yourself builders stop six to eight inches short (they need one more layer of blocks) because they think too much foundation wall will show. It won't. "The backfill will cover it," Friedrich promises, "and it's a lot easier to haul in two or three loads of dirt for extra backfill than to deal with a potentially leaky basement."
As for Friedrich's Step three in keeping out the wet, it's, "Insist on true water-proofing and a properly installed subdrain system. Just damp-proofing is insufficient."
Achieving wide open spaces in new houses' interiors has gotten a lot easier. Credit engineered lumber, says Jerry Klevan, Sales Consultant at Hanson Builders & Remodelers. I-joists, trusses, beams and other structural framing components made from engineered lumber boost design flexibility and support large, open rooms.
Engineered lumber out-performs conventional wood, Klevan says. "The engineered lumber is more stable. It can span longer distances and carry heavier loads. It lets builders achieve longer expanses in floor systems."
Engineered lumber, also known as LVL (laminated veneer lumber), is a layered composite of wood veneers and waterproof adhesive, bonded under high pressure. "LVL components are a large and important part of the framing package today," Klevan says.
Choosing windows for a new house calls for homeowner homework, say Bob Vruwink and Brian McHenry, co-owners of North States Windows and Doors. Explore the options which include old standbys (wood, vinyl-clad wood, aluminum-clad wood and rigid vinyl) and a pair of aspiring rookies (cellular PVC and fiberglass).
Wood offers incomparable beauty and keeps its good looks if it's maintained properly. Vinyl needs little maintenance. And the newcomers are the trend. "In the next 10 years, you'll see less and less wood and vinyl," Vruwink says.
No wonder. As an insulator, cellular PVC tops rigid vinyl by 200 percent and wood by 60 percent. Fiberglass insulates well, too, Vruwink says, "and is strong, doesn't shrink or expand and is impervious to temperature changes and moisture."
McHenry advises homeowners to research windows' performance and longevity. Windows aren't the place to cut corners. "Down the line, one of the most expensive things to replace is windows," says Vruwink.
In insulation, the foremost factors are R-value (the capacity of an insulator to resist heat flow) and cost (computed per square foot). The two rise together, so consider your budget and how long you plan to stay in your new house, says Denny Tienter, Manager of Citywide Insulation Inc.
EXTERIOR WALL INSULATION: Choices include R-19 or R-21 fiberglass batt or R-23 net-and-blow. Fiberglass batting comes pre-made, in sheets or rolls. In the net-and-blow process, netting is installed and insulation blown and packed in behind the net. R-19 batt costs 24 cents less a square foot than R-21 and 34 cents less than R-23 net-and-blow.
ATTIC INSULATION (BLOWN-IN): R-38, the minimum allowed by the building code, runs seven cents below the R-45. "The maximum as far as payback goes is R- 45," Tienter says. "Everything depends on the size of the house."
Most shingles are a composite of asphalt and fiberglass, a blend that produces strength and longevity & durability. You can gauge durability by the length of the warranty.
Manufacturers measure durability in tear strength which is tested by machine. The more shingles resist ripping, the longer the warranty. Forty-year-warranty shingles excel in tear strength. A 25-year warranty is good and the industry standard, says Mike Halloran, office manager at K.W. Billman Roofing. You should look for a guarantee of at least 25 years.
Warranty length isn't the only longevity to consider. The manufacturer's longevity matters, too, Halloran says. "Will the company be there if a problem occurs? If it has been in business a long time, it's a good sign."
"Remember, too," says Billman Roofing estimator Bill Weiss, "that improper installation voids the warranty - just like opening the back of your new TV - so get yourself a qualified installer."
When choosing doors for their new houses, most people concentrate on price, says Bob Manemann, Vice President and General Manager of Kreofsky Building Supplies. That's fine, but the warranty matters, too.
What's its length? One-year warranties are most common, Manemann says, "but a 10-year-warranty door is much better." The best doors come so wrapped up in metal that no wood shows.
If a guaranteed door fizzles, who fixes it? "Some manufacturers don't have repair crews. They'll send you a new threshold, but you have to install it." Find out who's responsible for the labor.
What's the buyer's obligation? Some outside doors come painted with a primer and need a complete paint job, and on all six sides at that. The finishing layer protects doors' wood edgings from rotting and metal edgings from rusting, and if either problem occurs and the door isn't wearing a top coat of paint, the warranty is void.
Siding and Moisture Protection
Vinyl is the maintenance-free siding of choice for new houses, says Larson Siding and Windows President Tim Mayer. Its cost is the main reason for vinyl siding's popularity but not the only one. It's easy to clean and easy to repair and refuses to dent.
"Over the years, vinyl has gotten better and better," Mayer says. "It's thicker and longer and stronger and more fade resistant, too." He recommends using vinyl siding that's at least .046 inch thick. "Check out the fade warranty, too, especially if you want a darker color. Premium vinyl sidings can have 15-year fade resistance warranties."
"Vinyl is the best value, but if you want really dark colors, use steel." And don't skip the important step before the siding. "Always use a house wrap to help the house breathe and be moisture proof," Mayer says.
The plumbing contractor furnishes and installs three systems your new house can't do without:
- fuel piping, usually for natural or L.P. gas
- drains and vents
- water distribution
|
"Proper installation is vital to the health of the family," says Jim Gander, owner of Superior Plumbing and Heating. "Plumbing contractors and plumbers protect the home from hundreds of diseases that can be transmitted through the drain or water distribution system."
That's why it takes at least four years' experience to earn journeyman plumber designation and at least another year to qualify as a plumbing contractor. It's also why the Minnesota Department of Health polices plumbing contractors and administers the licensing tests they must pass.
"You need a licensed, competent plumber because lots of weird bacteria can thrive in an improperly installed system," Gander says. "Is your plumber licensed? If he is, he's most likely doing the job right."
House builders give their clients allowances for certain items, carpets for example, and the clients, with that allowance in mind, pick their favorite styles and colors. Plumbing fixtures are an exception.
"Builders usually don't give a plumbing allowance," says Tracy Bartlett, showroom manager at Westburne Supply Inc. "Instead, it's a set package of basic fixtures, and if the homeowner wants to make changes, he must pay the price difference."
Start early if you want to participate in plumbing-fixture picking. "Sometimes the fixtures are being installed before the homeowners know what's happening." Bathtubs, showers and faucets go in before sheet rock goes up, and special orders (which include colors except white or ivory) can take three or four weeks. Fixture shoppers should bring a copy of their floor plan to the store so the salesperson will know what size tubs and showers are specified.
Where Should I Put the Electrical Outlets?
The building code solves some of the electric plug-ins placement puzzle by requiring outlets six feet from doors and then every 12 feet. In the kitchen, code calls for a countertop outlet every four feet.
Beyond that, you get to decide, and Terri Broadwater, Residential Manager at Winkels Electric, has some tips. "Walk through the house after it's framed and plan where you want your furniture." Where will you put the TV, VCR and DVD player? And the computer and its electronics entourage? It's a good idea to provide extra outlets for those gadgets to get their prongs into.
If your kitchen plans include a countertop microwave, it will need a dedicated circuit. In the bedroom, it's nice to have an electric outlet on both sides of the bed.
"There's a lot to consider," Broadwater says. "If you have questions, electricians are more than happy to help."
Innovative lighting techniques, designed to make your new house beautiful and practical, call for early planning. "It's hard to change the wiring once it's installed," says Karin Buechler, co-owner of Light Spot, LLC.
Here are some pointers to help you preplan:
- A dining room chandelier doesn't provide enough light. "Add wall sconces or recessed lights around the chandelier to highlight it and so you can see to eat or serve."
- And so you can see to fix the food, put plenty of lights in the kitchen: a center-of-the-ceiling fixture, plus lights to shine on work spaces and the dining area.
- Home offices also need brightening from multiple sources.
- Outside lights accent your new house's good looks and help supply safety and security. The police suggest lighting all four sides.
|
"If you have questions," Buechler says, "talk with a lighting specialist."
Most new houses (except starter houses) feature a fireplace or two. Standard settings include living rooms and family rooms, and you can also find fireplaces in bedrooms and kitchens. "We have even put them in bathrooms," says Jim Buchan of Energy Products and Design.
Most new home owners choose gas fireplaces. "A typical high-efficiency gas fireplace costs about half as much as a high-efficiency wood-burning fireplace because you don't have to buy the expensive chimney." Nor do you have to lug logs in and sweep ashes out.
You can get gas hearth logs that glow with wood-burning realism, and you can select from a variety of fireplace designs. "Besides picking out the fireplace, consider what you want around it - brick, tile, stone - and the different mantle options.
"Gas fireplaces have come a long way," Buchan says. Some even surpass heater status and merit rating as furnaces.
What Type of Heating Unit Should I Choose?
To your new house to-do list, add talk with the heating contractor. HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning) offers options, says Steve Murphy, president of Tonna Heating & Cooling. Find out what's available.
Look at types of fuels. Do you prefer LP, natural gas, electric or geo-thermal? "You and the heating contractor will be able to figure out which is best for you.
"Look at payback versus upfront installation. If you have an idea how long you plan to live in the house, factor that in. Remember to check with the utility company for rebates."
Fuel types aren't your only options. You can choose systems for zoning, comfort, indoor air quality and air filtering. "Look at future expansion," Murphy says, "and plan now to make sure the system is set up for that."
You should have that chat with the heating contractor before the ducts are installed because once they are, it's too late for changes.
You can call it drywall, Sheetrock, gypsum wall board or plasterboard, but please don't blame it for nail pops. New homeowners' number one complaint about drywall is that nuisance - the nail pop. Drywall is innocent, says Dan Soderberg of Palmer-Soderberg Inc. The true culprit is the wood behind the drywall.
As the wood dries, it shrinks and pulls away from the nails. Drywall didn't do it, and the nails don't really pop.
Drywall installers do everything they can to prevent those so-called nail pops. The method of fastening the drywall to the wood (the framing studs and joists) depends on the situation. A combination of nails and screws works best for securing drywall to ceilings and outside walls. Nails and glue are the top choice for inside walls.
If your new house does get a nail pop, Soderberg hopes you will "please remember we didn't leave it that way."
Wallcoverings - Paneling and Wallpaper
Will you take the do-it-yourself challenge or hire somebody else to hang the wallpaper? Either way, here's the word on wallcoverings from Joy Lueders, interior designer at Struve's Paint and Wallcoverings.
Color is big. People want to look at something more vibrant than off-white walls. "The trend is to coppers and golds, like the 1970s, but richer, more metallic and shimmery." Or pick any color - they're all in style.
If you decide to wait a year before you add wallcoverings, you'll know which areas of which walls get the most abuse (the fingerprinted, bumped-into places), and you'll be aware of the affects of sunlight in your house. Wallcoverings in cool colors complement warm, sunny rooms; warm hues counterbalance chilly rooms.
Approximately half of new house owners do their own wallpapering. Most of the rest, the hire-somebody-elsers, have papered before. If you do tackle the task yourself, put wallpaper-ready primer on the drywall, and remember to use sizing, too.
Warning: Anyone Can Call Himself a Painting Contractor.
The way to pick a pro is to ask your potential painter some questions.
- How long have you been in business? Longevity hints that a company will still be around if problems arise later.
- Are you insured? If he isn't and has an accident while working for you, you're liable.
- What kind of paint do you use, and does its manufacturer guarantee it? Problems with paint rarely happen, "but any product can have a flaw."
- Do you guarantee your work? He should, for at least a year.
- Do you belong to the local builders association? "You can't just pay dues and join. The builders association checks on applicants to make sure they pay their bills and that it looks as if they'll be in business for a while."
- Will you provide references? "Nothing eases your mind like seeing the work for yourself."
|
Would you rather (1) see your new house's walls keep their fresh-paint look for a few years or (2) repaint them much sooner? If option one has more appeal, pick high-quality paint, says Rick Brekke, store manager at Rochester's Sherwin-Williams. "With better paint on the walls, a new home will look better longer."
Paint comes in a choice of finishes, each of which is available in a range of grades. "High-grade paints last three to four times longer and make walls easier to clean."
Durability and ease of cleanups also depend on the finish. Flat paint is least washable and most fragile. Satin, the popular choice, withstands scrubbing and fends off stains. Tough semi-gloss is recommended for bathrooms, kitchens and the most-used entryway.
Pick your paint (your high-grade, long-wearing paint) early, when you're planning your house. "Know what it's going to cost and include it in your building budget."
Creative painting techniques and special paint products can bring pizzazz to the walls of a new house. The most popular techniques are sponging and rag rolling, says Hirshfield's Decorating Center manager Chad Grande. Sponging produces looks ranging from granite to mist, and rag rolling is versatile, too. Effects depend on the colors you use and how you wield the sponge or roll the rag.
A dual roller, two rollers on one frame, lets the painter apply two colors at the same time. "The colors should contrast. The result is a soft, elegant marbleized look." Color washing also produces the appearance of marble, and you can use as many colors as you want. A suede finish calls for special rollers and two coats of paint. Crackling gives a weathered look; sand paint contains fine grains of sand which add texture to walls.
"When you've selected your colors and the look you want, get a piece of tag board and practice," Grande said. "You might even invent your own special technique."
Interior trim, the woodwork in a house that finishes doors, windows, edges, and corners, was a cinch to pick five years ago. "Oak was about it," says Wayne Eisen, a salesman at Stock Building Supply. "Take doors. You could upgrade from plain to four-panel or six-panel. In oak."
Now options include maple, cherry, knotty pine, oak (of course) and, for painted doors, composites. Doors come with raised panels or flat panels and with one, two, three, four, five or six panels, and there are panel designs as well. "The options don't cost a fortune either."
You can get molding to match your doors or complement them. "People are mixing trims now: Painted doors and maple or cherry molding or a cherry door, painted woodwork and maybe a hickory floor. It has to be the right combination and when it is, you get a nice complementary look."
Before you commit to a kitchen island, consider clearances. "Clearances are basic to kitchen design and really important," says Diane Quinn, owner of Beyond Kitchens.
The leeway-around-an-island rule used to be 36 inches, which is the width of a standard hallway. But if an appliance sits opposite the island, the space between becomes, in kitchen design parlance, a "work aisle," and work aisles need to be more than a yard wide to allow for access to the refrigerator or oven or dishwasher. In a one-cook kitchen, work aisles should be 42 inches wide. Higher-traffic kitchens for two cooks or a cook and one or more frequent refrigerator-raiders, for example, need work aisles of at least 60 inches.
"An efficient work aisle takes up a lot of space," Quinn says. "It can determine whether or not an island is a good idea or an inconvenience."
Early in the building process - well before your new kitchen becomes a kitchen - pick your appliances, says Jackie Rau of Guyer's Builders Supply. "You can't do cabinets first then say, 'I'd like a built-in refrigerator.' It's smart to shop and see what's available and then go home and decide what you want and need."
Selections abound. "Would a wall oven and cooktop suit your cooking customs and lifestyle? Would you prefer a professional series range? For this you will need more air flow (CFM), and you need to coordinate this with your builder early on. These decisions can make a significant difference in your budget and cabinet layout."
"Discuss your options with an appliance person," Rau says, "and then coordinate with your builder."
Kitchen and Bath Cabinetry
Kitchens and bathrooms lead the list of the most popular rooms for cabinets. Dens and family rooms come next, and their cabinetry need not be custom-built, says Jennifer Selle, co-owner of Kitchen Concepts of Rochester. "More and more, stock cabinet companies are offering storage units, desks, and entertainment centers and complementary pieces."
Den and family room cabinetry comes in a variety of styles in a variety of woods - maple, cherry, oak, hickory and birch. Painted pieces are available, too. Enamel paint gives a rich look and is rising in popularity. You can mix and match finishes, too; for example, antique white enamel cabinets complement oak trim and oak floors.
The stock pieces offer a full range of possibilities, Selle says, "at prices somewhat more affordable than custom built."
Solid Surface Countertops
In its role as antacid, the chemical compound alumina trihydrate soothes stomachs. But if you add an acrylic binder, don't swallow the alumina trihydrate cocktail. Use it as a countertop instead.
That's right. Solid surface material (such as Corian) consists of alumina trihydrate and a binder. "Because the mixture is naturally pure white, pigment is added," says Tim Buechler, owner of AFM Surfaces. "Solid surfaces come in hundreds of colors." Then manufacturers shape the mixture into sheets which are turned into counter, desk and table tops and fireplace mantels.
The solid surface's outstanding feature is design flexibility. "You can glue it to itself, and the joints disappear. It looks seamless and can be made into all sort of shapes."
Before you order a counter top, look at a LARGE sample of it, says Kathy Blohm, co-owner of the Top Shop of Rochester. "Some of the patterns really change when seen in a big piece."
If you pick laminate material (such as Formica), you'll have hundreds of patterns and colors from which to choose. That's because laminate is made from decorated paper, saturated with resin and bonded to resin paper sheets or backer material. Laminates are durable but "not meant to be used as a hot pad or a cutting board."
The color trend is earth tones: terra cotta, sage, cinnamon. Nature is in style, and laminate can masquerade as stone. You can upgrade your counter top by adding a wood edge.
About that large sample: Look at it sooner, not later. Orders take approximately three weeks, and turnaround time lengthens in the spring and fall when new houses are being finished.
When you choose countertops consider stone. Stone might surprise you, says Michael Welch, President of Stone Concepts. "Many people have in their minds that stone is very expensive. But it isn't. It isn't cheap, but it isn't out of most people's budgets either.
"Stone has character. It's beautiful and durable." Granite, most durable among countertop rocks, is the favorite choice for kitchen countertops. "Granite is almost care-free. You just use it." Marble and onyx can be used in kitchens, too, but aren't as hard as granite and fare better in low-traffic areas.
Granite also excels in versatility. Depending on its finish - polished, matte or in between - it can complement a variety of decorating styles. Slate and soapstone aren't as all-purpose, but they star at accenting the Old World look.
Stone's indoor applications aren't limited to counter and vanity tops. Its uses include tabletops, bar tops, fireplace surrounds and floors.
"How am I going to get all my clothes in this closet?" ranks as number one among customer questions, says Becky Plath, co-owner of Closet Organizers. "Many closets look big until you start putting your stuff in them. Then they look little."
Often, people pay no attention to closets until after their house is built. It's a good idea to pay attention sooner than that, such as when the house is being designed.
But whether or not you help plan your house's storage areas, closet organizing systems, consisting of shelves, drawers, shoe racks, door and wall racks, extra rods, etc., can help you maximize space. Pick a system built of high-quality material. If you choose ventilated wire, for example, be sure it's heavy gauge steel. If you hire a professional to design and install your storage system, make sure he guarantees the installation. "Closets are a very important part of the house," Plath says, "and custom closets add to its resale value."
"As they're building a house, some people don't think about a security system," says Melissa Brinkman, Director of Business Development at Custom Alarm. "They plan to get one put in later, but the best time to start is when the house is being built."
The best time, in fact, is before the drywall gets installed, when access is easy and running wires practical. When the house is finished, the wiring will be ready for the security devices. But if your house is already sheetrocked, it can still have a security system, and a good one, because wireless technology works just as well as its hard-wired kin.
The advantage of a wire network is the lower cost of its devices. "You can also combine hard-wired and wireless equipment. They work well together," Brinkman says.
Structured Wiring Explained
"Structured wiring," "data/voice/video wiring," "low-voltage wiring," "structured cabling" -- whichever you call it, your new house needs it. Mark Stevens, project manager at Adair Electric, likes "structured wiring," which he describes as wiring for communications. It transmits audio, video and data for computers, telephones, TV, computer networks, e-mail, Internet, VCRs, DVDs and more. "Structured wiring used to be for businesses. Now houses need it, too."
Your house will get a dash of structured wiring, enough for telephones and TV, but if you want to go beyond the basics, you should let your builder know. Structured wiring involves cabling, data jacks and a central distribution panel that can be reconfigured to suit your needs.
As demand for home theater systems, home offices and other electronic networks soars, so does demand for structured wiring. It increases your options and adds to your home's resale value. A new house without it is already obsolete, "like a car without a radio and air conditioning."
How can I prevent mold from growing in my home?
While mold spores are all around us, mold growth can be prevented. Mold growing in your homes requires moisture, warmth, and food. Depriving mold of any of these three items will stop it from growing, but it will not kill the mold that is already there. Mold spores will remain dormant, and if the moisture, warmth and food all reappear, mold will begin to grow again.
The most important steps in controlling mold growth are to clean any existing mold and to eliminate excessive moisture. You can take numerous precautionary steps:
- Vacuum and clean regularly to remove possible sources of mold growth. Pay special attention to bathrooms and other areas of your home that are likely to generate a lot of moisture.
- In portions of your home that are susceptible to moisture, use area rugs or washable floor surfaces rather than wall-to-wall carpeting. If you use area rugs, launder them periodically.
- Do not store materials such as paper, books, clothes, or other possible sources of food for mold in humid parts of your home.
- Repair water leaks in your roof, windows, or any other part of the home as soon as possible.
- Clean refrigerator drip pans regularly according to the manufacturer's instructions. If your refrigerator and freezer doors do not seal properly, moisture can build up and mold can grow there. Remove any mold on the door gaskets and replace faulty gaskets.
- In the kitchen and bathroom, open windows or use exhaust fans when engaging in activities that produce moisture. Exhaust fans should be vented to the outdoors and not to an attic or crawl space.
- If you live in a house with a basement, consider using a dehumidifier there. The cold basement floor and walls can be a source of moisture build-up.
- If your home has an attic, make sure it is properly insulated and ventilated.
- If you have a crawl space under your house, cover the soil in the crawl space with waterproof polyethylene plastic. If your crawl space is ventilated, close the vents in the summer and keep them open in the winter.
|
You can find more information about household mold at the Household Mold Resource Center's Web site at www.moldtips.com. This site is brought to you by the National Association of Home Builders.
Selecting Window Treatments
"What is a standard-size window?" his customers ask Greg McKey, territorial representative for Budget Blinds.
"There is none," he answers. Windows come in such a wide choice of sizes that it is difficult finding the right-size window treatment in do-it-yourself stores. Window styles vary, too, which adds to the challenge because treatment type depends on window type. When you're selecting a window treatment, allow for the window's cranks, handles and other apparatus.
Consider your home's decor, too, and what colors and designs will suit it best. Analyze your wishes and needs for each room. If, for example, you want to control sunlight in a room that doesn't require much privacy, up and down shades aren't the practical choice.
Ask the salesperson what happens if a blind breaks. "Look for a service warranty," McKey says, "and find out if repair work can be done in the home."
Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile
"Porcelain is generally denser than most ceramic tile and has a lower absorbtion rate" says Chris McCormick, owner of Med City Tile, Inc. "The extra density make porcelain less likely to chip or scratch."
An important thing to look for, when comparing different tiles, is the PEI rating, especially at discount stores. The PEI rating will tell how resistant the tile surface will be to scratching and chipping. This rating scale is from 0 to 5, with 5 being the most resistant.
In a typical residential application, porcelain and ceramic will endure comparably provided they have the same PEI rating. In terms of functionality, porcelain and ceramic will work for most residential and many commercial applications. Some porcelain tile can be used for exterior applications because it is frost resistant.
Porcelain tile tends to cost more than ceramic tile, but with an increase in demand, the price of porcelain has come down. From an installation standpoint, porcelain tile is harder to cut and bond than ceramic tile.
Porcelain and ceramic are both easily maintained. We recommend vacuuming the surface of the tile to remove dirt and dust, followed by a wet mop and a mild cleaning solution. Vacuuming is key to long term maintenance becuase "wet mopping only" tends to build up dirt on the face of the tile and grout joints.
"Wood floors have been around for years and years and will be around for years and years more," says Jim Brogan, president of Creative Hardwood Floors. He offers some facts about wood floors:
- The top seller is oak, normally red oak.
- The newest trend is red birch. "It's the heartwood of the yellow birch tree, and its color depends on grade which is the mix of red and white." Red's grade is 90 percent; 75 percent denotes yellow or white.
- The most popular areas to put wood floors are foyers, hallways, kitchens, dinettes and half-baths.
- Wood flooring comes in pre-finished and unfinished versions. The unfinished, which gets sanded and finished after it's installed, is the favorite among buyers. "You can see how it looks in your house with your decor and lighting and then pick a stain color or natural.
- Hardwood floors add to the value of a house, and upkeep is easy.
|
"Choosing carpeting should be easy and fun," says Carpet One salesman Jeff Gibson. And he offers some tips so it will be.
* Begin by deciding which room is most important and select carpet for it first. "Start with one area and just keep it going."
* Be prepared when you shop. "Bring in fabric swatches, paint colors, a blueprint, and pictures from magazines so we can be more helpful."
* Pinpoint your preferences. "There are so many choices, but you can eliminate some. If you don't like Berber, for example, you narrow down your choices."
And the trend in carpeting? "Friezes have heavily twisted fibers -- twisted like a rope -- and the tighter the twists, the stronger the carpet. Friezes now feature softer yarns and a softer feel."
Steps in Planning a Home Office
The mystery of how to plan a home office can be untangled in three steps, says Dave Higgins, owner of Higgins Custom Cabinetry. Here's his solution:
Consider basic uses: Who will use the office? Just you? You and your spouse? The kids? Will you need more than one work station? Will the room be an extension of your office at work or strictly a home office?
Assess your needs. Basic requirements include a desk and storage space. How big do you want your desk to be? How much storage will you require and what kinds -- open shelves, closed shelves or a combination? How many file cabinets do you need? How much countertop space?
What's your style? Which look do you like: den, library, all-business or another? "You're wide open in what you can do," Higgins says.
"A lot of things enter in, but planning a home office is basic and simple." Mystery solved.
Before you put in your lawn and landscaping, tend to preliminaries, says Forrest Sargent, owner of Sargent's Landscape Nursery.
1. Grading --"The bold water path - how water flows away from the house and off the property - must be established before the landscaping and lawn go in." Runoff needs to be fast enough so water doesn't sit"; the flow should harm neither your place nor the neighbors." The excavating contractor does rough grading; the landscaper the finish grading.
2. Landscape construction -- If you plan to build a retaining wall, patio or deck, you'll reduce cost and disruption by doing it before you landscape.
3. Patience -- The dirt surrounding your house's foundation must settle, a process requiring plenty of water and approximately a year.
4. Irrigation system -- If your plans include an automatic lawn sprinkler system, you can install it now.
You've followed Sargent's rule and reached aesthetics time. Now you can plant your beautiful yard.
Don't Let Your Retaining Wall Sink
Do your landscaping plans include an install-it-yourself retaining wall that will run near the foundation of your new house?
The wall could sink. But you can prevent that by taking an extra step before you build the wall, says Todd Kroening, vice president of Custom Retaining Walls and Landscaping.
The shoring-up measure is necessary because the ground around the foundation of a new house hasn't settled yet. "Before house builders put in the foundation, they dig a trench two or three feet wider than the foundation, and when the foundation is in, they backfill the trench." That's fine for normal purposes. But not for retaining wall purposes.
To droop-proof your retaining wall, dig a furrow where the wall will go. The furrow should be 18 to 24 inches wide and 10 inches deeper than the bottom of the wall. Now put in a 1-inch layer of compacted fill (rocks) -- and build your unsinkable retaining wall.
Sprinkler Systems Tailored to Landscaping
Unlike Mother Nature's all-or-nothing approach to watering, automatic lawn sprinkling systems are tailored to the turf they shower on. And that's why, says Bob Gander of Bob Gander Plumbing and Heating, "you need to know where your landscaping and edging are going to go before you install an automatic sprinkler system."
The best time (easiest on both pocketbook and lawn) to put in an automatic system is before the yard gets its layer of sod or its scattering of grass seed and after your landscaping plans are firm.
But because not everyone has settled on the landscape design, the best time to install isn't always the practical time. Good news: It's all right to postpone -- you can add a sprinkler system when you finish landscaping. And once the system is in, you can still change your landscaping because sprinkling elements can be switched.
Your new house is done except for the deck. Now it's time to choose what you want that deck made of. Lee Smith, technical assistant at Kruse Lumber, describes characteristics of treated wood, cedar, composite and plastic.
Treated lumber costs the least, and it endures. "If you don't stain it, it will turn grey, but it'll last 40 years."
Cedar, the top-seller, craves attention. "Cedar decks look good, but it's hard to keep them that way. They need fresh stain, at least on the flooring, about every other year."
Does no staining --ever --sound better? Consider composite lumber, a 50/50 blend of wood and plastic. Kruse's best-selling composite costs approximately half again as much as cedar.
Plastic disdains maintenance, too, and keeps on looking good. But plastic planks cost about three times more than cedar and react to temperature changes. "Plastic expands and contracts, and you have to calculate that when you install it."
Have you considered making your new house handicapped accessible? More and more people are doing just that, says Mark Stinson, manager of Barrier Free Access. "If it's the house you want to live in, it's easier and more practical to have it done right away."
And you can also appreciate, right away, broader halls and wider doors and bigger bathrooms and a roomier kitchen. And more: "A number of products look nice -- not institutional -- and are becoming mainstream. An accessible shower, for example, is easier to use in general."
A bathroom's adaptability can become particularly important. You don't have to install grab bars, but you could put in blocking for them. "People need to consider what they can do now to plan for the future," Stinson says. "It's hard to put a value on the ability to live in your own home."
Do your building plans include a swimming pool? There's a best time to install it, says Michelle Petersen, owner of Waterfront Spa and Pool Inc. "Pool installation works best once the framing is complete and the electrician and plumber are starting to work."
You can't put a pool in before electricity -- at least temporary electricity -- has arrived on site. The elevation work and basement should be done, but the pool should go in before the final grading and landscaping because "you certainly don't want to do that twice."
As for location, the law will help you decide. Minnesota code says:
- Swimming pools must be set a minimum of 10 feet from property lines.
- Pool equipment must be installed a minimum of 20 feet from property lines. Remember the fence, too. "All pools must be enclosed with a non-climbable fence with self-closing, self-latching gates." Rochester requires fences five feet high; Olmsted County's rule is four feet.
|
Copyright 2003 Rochester Area Builders, Inc.
No part of the Builder's Corner articles may be reproduced or printed without written permission from Rochester Area Builders.
108 Elton Hills Lane NW, Rochester, MN 55901. Phone 507-282-7698.
|